Under the law of Hong Kong, intoxicating liquor must not be sold or supplied to a minor in the course of business. 根據香港法律,不得在業務過程中,向未成年人售賣或供應令人醺醉的酒類。


PHILIPPONNAT - Clos des Goisses 2013

2 items left

Region : Champagne - France

Grapes :85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay
Vinification:traditional methods. Partial malolactic fermentation and reserve wines aged in casks.
Aging: on the lees at a constant temperature of 12°C for 8 years.

From the Champagne region’s most exceptional hillside vineyard: The 5.83 hectare vineyard protected by walls is one of the region’s few “clos” and the oldest and steepest in Champagne. In a perfect position facing due south, it stands on the best hillside in Mareuil-sur-Ay. It really is an exceptional terroir where the chalky bedrock is very close to the surface.

RP 98 |Surpassing even the 2012 and 2008, Philipponnat's 2013 Clos des Goisses looks to be the finest vintage of this cuvée in several decades, at least on first acquaintance. Deriving from only the six core parcels out of the 13 that make up the Clos des Goisses, it's a striking wine, evoking aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, Anjou pear, clear honey, bee pollen, stone fruit and iodine.
Full-bodied, layered and vinous, its textural attack segues into a deep, concentrated and tightly wound mid-palate that's girdled by racy acids and chalky structure, before concluding with a long, saline finish. Why is it quite so good? It would appear that 2013 was the perfect storm: an early-ripening terroir in a cool, late vintage; moderately yielding Burgundian selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that attained full maturity; and a willingness to make a strict selection have all come together to deliver a profound Clos des Goisses.
” William Kelley
VN 98 |The 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous... Its depth, textural resonance and finish are so evocative as to what the future holds. The 2013 is a positively stunning Champagne and one of the best Goisses in recent memory. I can't wait to see how it develops." Antonio Galloni

The topsoil of Clos des Goisses is different to that in the surrounding vineyards. All over Mareuil-sur-Aÿ the topsoil consists of clay with a siliceous content and some dark, crumbly, rendzine that develops naturally under grass over chalk; but on Clos des Goisses, where the topsoil would naturally be just 2–3in (5–8cm) deep, due to erosion, the topsoil is in fact 10–20in (25–50cm) deep, thanks to centuries of manure that man has dumped on this constantly eroding, very steep slope.

The liming effect from the subsoil on the humus that has built up through manuring has created a natural nutrient production cycle which, with the higher temperature, gives the wine its exceptional power, structure, and intensity, while the higher active lime content (30 percent compared to 25 percent throughout the rest of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ) imparts a certain spiciness and minerality that makes it closer in style to wines from Aÿ (the most calcareous Pinot Noir growth in Champagne, with 35–40 percent active lime) than to the rounder, more mellow wines that are more typical of this village.

First produced in 1935, itwas named ‘Vin des Goisses’. They aim to make it very year, even in such difficult vintages as 2001 (one exception however, was 1984, which proved simply too challenging even for this special plot). Malolactic fermentation is always blocked in Clos des Goisses wines, and they are routinely aged under cork rather than crown cap closure.

Its partial vinification (approx. 50%) under wood offers more complexity. It’s then aged for +8 years in the cellars of the House and a low dosage is chosen to let all the minerality and vinosity of this great vineyard express itself.

Our barrels are on average 3 or 4 years old, so they are rather young, in the sense that in Champagne, the old tradition was to use them until they died. We thus had an old wood with an oxidative character, but no longer any tannic contribution. In our case, micro-oxygenation is not absent, but as we still have tannins which are antioxidants, this does not lead to oxidation, and only promotes aromatic deployment. We therefore have this somewhat paradoxical double effect which allows the wine to open up while retaining its freshness. Finally, we will not forget this flattering contribution of wood provided by the young tannins. They have a slightly sweetening power in perception, which is expressed in vanilla notes.” explains Charles Philipponnat.

In 1999 Charles produced the first-ever rosé from this hallowed site, Juste Rosé, a cuvée de prestige rosé of unmatched power and depth. Extraordinary from the first release, it has become even deeper and more refined following the decision in 2006 to make it using the saignée method, macerating a portion of the Pinot Noir for color, perfume, and structure.