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PHILIPPONNAT - Clos des Goisses 2012 - Jeroboam
PHILIPPONNAT - Clos des Goisses 2012 - Jeroboam

PHILIPPONNAT - Clos des Goisses 2012 - Jeroboam


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  • 1 Bottle (3 L)
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Region : Champagne - France

Grapes :85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay
Vinification:traditional methods. Partial malolactic fermentation and reserve wines aged in casks.
Aging:on the lees at a constant temperature of 12°C for 8 years.

From the Champagne region’s most exceptional hillside vineyard: The 5.83 hectare vineyard protected by walls is one of the region’s few “clos” and the oldest and steepest in Champagne. In a perfect position facing due south, it stands on the best hillside in Mareuil-sur-Ay. It really is an exceptional terroir where the chalky bedrock is very close to the surface.

Tasting notes :Exhibits aromas of citrus, apple, and toast. The palate is powerful and concentrated with flavors of lemon, apple, and a touch of brioche, with a long, mineral finish.
Expert rating : 
Robert Parker 96/100
"Describes the 2012 Clos des Goisses as a powerful and expressive champagne, with a complex bouquet of ripe orchard fruits, citrus zest, and hints of toasted brioche. The palate is full-bodied and richly textured, showcasing layers of fruit flavors balanced by a vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral backbone. The finish is long, elegant, and characterized by a persistent saline note that adds depth and complexity."


The topsoil of Clos des Goisses is different to that in the surrounding vineyards. All over Mareuil-sur-Aÿ the topsoil consists of clay with a siliceous content and some dark, crumbly, rendzine that develops naturally under grass over chalk; but on Clos des Goisses, where the topsoil would naturally be just 2–3in (5–8cm) deep, due to erosion, the topsoil is in fact 10–20in (25–50cm) deep, thanks to centuries of manure that man has dumped on this constantly eroding, very steep slope.

The liming effect from the subsoil on the humus that has built up through manuring has created a natural nutrient production cycle which, with the higher temperature, gives the wine its exceptional power, structure, and intensity, while the higher active lime content (30 percent compared to 25 percent throughout the rest of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ) imparts a certain spiciness and minerality that makes it closer in style to wines from Aÿ (the most calcareous Pinot Noir growth in Champagne, with 35–40 percent active lime) than to the rounder, more mellow wines that are more typical of this village.

First produced in 1935, itwas named ‘Vin des Goisses’. They aim to make it very year, even in such difficult vintages as 2001 (one exception however, was 1984, which proved simply too challenging even for this special plot). Malolactic fermentation is always blocked in Clos des Goisses wines, and they are routinely aged under cork rather than crown cap closure.

Its partial vinification (approx. 50%) under wood offers more complexity. It’s then aged for +8 years in the cellars of the House and a low dosage is chosen to let all the minerality and vinosity of this great vineyard express itself.

Our barrels are on average 3 or 4 years old, so they are rather young, in the sense that in Champagne, the old tradition was to use them until they died. We thus had an old wood with an oxidative character, but no longer any tannic contribution. In our case, micro-oxygenation is not absent, but as we still have tannins which are antioxidants, this does not lead to oxidation, and only promotes aromatic deployment. We therefore have this somewhat paradoxical double effect which allows the wine to open up while retaining its freshness. Finally, we will not forget this flattering contribution of wood provided by the young tannins. They have a slightly sweetening power in perception, which is expressed in vanilla notes.” explains Charles Philipponnat.

In 1999 Charles produced the first-ever rosé from this hallowed site, Juste Rosé, a cuvée de prestige rosé of unmatched power and depth. Extraordinary from the first release, it has become even deeper and more refined following the decision in 2006 to make it using the saignée method, macerating a portion of the Pinot Noir for color, perfume, and structure.