Domaine SAMUEL BILLAUD Chablis 1er Cru 'Mont De Milieu' 2020

91-94 points/'Sweet spot/Outstanding,' Allen Meadows (Burghound): "(from a .58 ha holding). Billaud noted that this will have about 20% wood in the final blend. Here too there is a vague whiff of the exotic to the aromas of passion fruit, white peach, mineral reduction and shrimp shell scents. There is again very good density to the intense big-bodied flavors that possess a caressing but muscular finish that coats the palate. This is already showing fine complexity and overall, is a wine that should amply repay extended bottle aging. Drink: 2027+. (Oct 2021)"

93 points Andy Howard, MW (Decanter): "Most of the cuvée is produced from Samuel's own vines and 20% is matured in demi-muid of 450-600 litres. Lime and orange zest notes on the palate; a premier cru with very good concentration. Due to be bottled in January 2022. Drinking Window: 2022-2027. (Oct 2021)"

91-93 points Neal Martin (Vinous): "From three parcels, 80, 35 and 75 years old, harvested separately with one or two days between, the 2020 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru is aged 80% in tank and 20% in 500-liter barrels for 18 months. It is very complex on the nose, offering apple blossom, freshly diced pear, sea spray and flinty aromas. The palate is well balanced, taut and fresh, delivering a fine bead of acidity and a toothsome finish with plenty of sapidity. Excellent. Drink: 2024-2048. (Oct 2021)"

Part of an esteemed Chablis family, Samuel Billaud struck out on his own in 2009 to found his eponymous domaine. He had previously been the winemaker at Domaine Billaud-Simon, which had been a shining light in the old school Chablis clubhouse of quality. Since the creation of his own label, Samuel has met with great success and moved into a new winery space in 2015 as well as purchasing four hectares of vines that had previously belonged to Domaine Billaud-Simon. The new winery lies in the heart of Chablis and used to belong to Stéphane Moreau-Naudet. It is set up so that Billaud only needs to pump his wines once, then gravity does the rest. The rest of the facilities consist of brand new stainless steel tanks and underground storage for barrels. The recently purchased hectarage includes land in the grand crus Les Clos, Vaudésir, Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, Séchet, and in the village level vineyards Les Pargues and Chapelot, as well as a Petit Chablis parcel directly to the north of Les Clos. He is also sourcing fruit from the grand crus Blanchots, Valmur, and Bougros. Due to his deep roots in Chablis, Samuel is able to purchase grapes from some of the finest, most well-established growers. In the cellar, the premier and grand cru wines see about 15% new wood in the form of large 450 and 600 L barrels, which offsets any overt “oakiness.” The rest is fermented in small stainless steel tank. The resulting range, from AC to Grand Cru, are layered wines rife with crunchy oyster shell and silex, and exhibit a range of flavor profiles from licorice to white peach to toasty baguette. This is top quality Chablis from a rising star producer – for white Burgundy lovers, these are not to be missed.