Samuel Billaud - Chablis Grand Cru - Vaudesir - 2018 - 750 ml
After parting ways with Domaine Billaud-Simon after some 20 years, Samuel Billaud has established his own state-of-the-art winery in central Chablis, where he is ably vinifying the fruit of some four hectares of estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes.
Manual harvesting of ripe but bright fruit is the rule here, followed by fermentation at 16 degrees to 20 degrees Celsius in tank and inconspicuous wood and maturation for 15 to 18 months on the lees for the premiers crus. These are bright, nervy expressions of Chablis with plenty of concentration and length.
Producing classy wines of crystalline purity, this address already belongs on any list of Chablis's best.
Another brilliant wine from Billaud is the 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a beautiful cuvée that wafts from the glass with scents of citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, honeycomb and dried white flowers. Full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's layered and complete, with fine depth at the core, racy acids and a long, elegantly perfumed finish. (95Pts) - William Kelley - The Wine Advocate.