Domaine SAMUEL BILLAUD Chablis 'Les Clos' 2019

95/100 Robert Parker 

‘Unwinding in the glass with notes of lemon oil, nutmeg, clear honey, apple blossom, fresh bread and oyster shell, the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is full-bodied, deep and layered, with huge reserves of concentration that are framed by lively acids and chalky extract. Racy and saline, it's a muscular but precise Les Clos that will demand a bit of patience. Having parted ways with Domaine Billaud Simon, Samuel Billaud established his own state-of-the-art winery in central Chablis several years ago, and he has rapidly emerged as one of the town's best half-dozen producers. Working with four hectares of organically farmed estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes, manual harvesting of ripe but bright fruit is the rule here, followed by fermentation at 16 to 20 degrees Celsius in tank and inconspicuous wood, and maturation for 15 to 18 months on the lees for the premiers crus and grand cru bottlings. The 2019 vintage has turned out brilliantly at this address, and everything reviewed here comes warmly recommended.’

92-94/100  Burghound

‘Once again the wood treatment isn't subtle wood as it includes vanilla nuances on the dried orchard fruit, iodine and lemongrass-suffused nose. There is outstanding concentration and punch to the powerful and palate coating flavors that deliver excellent length on the balanced finish that is markedly saline. While the oak is prominent at present, it should ultimately integrate, and my predicated range offers the benefit of the doubt in that regard. *Sweet Spot*’

Part of an esteemed Chablis family, Samuel Billaud struck out on his own in 2009 to found his eponymous domaine. He had previously been the winemaker at Domaine Billaud-Simon, which had been a shining light in the old school Chablis clubhouse of quality. Since the creation of his own label, Samuel has met with great success and moved into a new winery space in 2015 as well as purchasing four hectares of vines that had previously belonged to Domaine Billaud-Simon. The new winery lies in the heart of Chablis and used to belong to Stéphane Moreau-Naudet. It is set up so that Billaud only needs to pump his wines once, then gravity does the rest. The rest of the facilities consist of brand new stainless steel tanks and underground storage for barrels. The recently purchased hectarage includes land in the grand crus Les Clos, Vaudésir, Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, Séchet, and in the village level vineyards Les Pargues and Chapelot, as well as a Petit Chablis parcel directly to the north of Les Clos. He is also sourcing fruit from the grand crus Blanchots, Valmur, and Bougros. Due to his deep roots in Chablis, Samuel is able to purchase grapes from some of the finest, most well-established growers. In the cellar, the premier and grand cru wines see about 15% new wood in the form of large 450 and 600 L barrels, which offsets any overt “oakiness.” The rest is fermented in a small stainless steel tank. The resulting range, from AC to Grand Cru, are layered wines rife with crunchy oyster shell and silex, and exhibit a range of flavor profiles from licorice to white peach to toast baguette. This is top quality Chablis from a rising star producer – for white Burgundy lovers, these are not to be missed.