Domaine Marquis d'Angerville - Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs Monopole 2017 - 750 ml
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WHAT THE WINEMAKER IS SAYING
“The 2017s show great vitality and concentration, yet they are airy, almost ethereal in the mouth. The tannins are fine and well-integrated, providing structure and clear direction. There is brightness and succulence in this vintage, and unusual approachability at such an early stage.” Guillaume d’Angerville
This is the parcel of vines behind the domaine, a 2.15 hectare postage stamp of a vineyard, planted on stony white marl. South to south-east facing and steeply sloping, as if someone has picked up one of its corners, it is a warm site thanks to the reflective white soils. Closed on the nose in July, it had opened wonderfully by October, showing a fine line of rose petal perfume and gentle exotic spices. The palate is sweetly fruited on the attack, weightless, all taking place in the air. Beautifully fine, filigree tannins on the palate. This somehow seeps into you by osmosis, filling your mouth with perfume and flavour.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville forms part of the very fabric of Volnay. The Clos des Ducs, one of the village’s prime vineyards, lies directly behind the family home of the current Marquis, Guillaume d’Angerville.
The domaine, once part-owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, consists of 14 hectares of vines. The vast majority of this – 12.5 hectares – is premier cru, representing over 10% of the total premier cru plantings in Volnay. Guillaume d’Angerville left the world of finance in Paris to take charge of the domaine upon the death of his father, Jacques, in 2003. The domaine has been in the family for over two centuries, having been acquired in 1805. Guillaume has been supported since 2003 by his brotherin-law, Renaud de Villette, who had worked with Jacques for many years. François Duvivier is the domaine’s régisseur (manager), overseeing both the vineyards and the cellar. The Marquis d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes, meaning a high ‘skin to juice ratio’ and so a high level of natural tannins. The vines were replanted, following phylloxera, by Guillaume’s grandfather, Sem, shortly after his arrival at the domaine in 1906. A century later, in 2006, the domaine began conversion to biodynamic viticulture and is now wholly biodynamic. In the cellar, the grapes are cooled before fermentation. Extraction focuses on remontage (pumping over) rather than pigeage (punching down). Around a quarter new oak tends to be the maximum. The wines remain in barrel for 15-18 months and are customarily bottled unfined and unfiltered. These are the Volnays that we dream of: elegantly perfumed on the nose, with layered, textured palates. They combine intricate finesse with complexity, power and long ageing potential. Just occasionally, they display a sense of weightlessness which takes your breath away, the soaring flavours seemingly borne from thin air.
Appellation: Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs Monopole
Producer : Guillaume d’Angerville
Founded : 1805
Size : 2.15 hectares
Grape : 100% Pinot Noir
Age of the vines : 47 years in average
Organic / Biodynamic