Domaine Marquis d'Angerville - Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2017 - 750 ml
WHAT THE CRITICS ARE SAYING
“The 2017s show great vitality and concentration, yet they are
airy, almost ethereal in the mouth. The tannins are fine and well-integrated,
providing structure and clear direction. There is brightness and succulence in
this vintage, and unusual approachability at such an early stage.” Guillaume
‘‘The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans was showing especially
well, bursting with expressive aromas of rose petal, ripe wild berries, blood
orange rind and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to
full-bodied, rich and textural, with a layered core of concentrated fruit, fine
structuring tannins and a long finish. The suppleness of the vintage has
tempered Champans' tendency to structural muscularity but not its fleshy fruit,
making for a delightful gourmand wine.’’ William Kelley, Wine
The domaine has four hectares of Champans, in two plots, making this its largest holding. Whilst the soils at the top resemble the mineral Caillerets, the bottom is deeper and more iron-rich. It tends to be aromatically attractive, the most ‘Vosne’ or ‘Chambolle’-like nose, if you will. Although the perfume was in fact a little mute when tasted, the palate was wonderfully fruit-driven and fleshy, with a red-berried, upfront charm and lovely supple tannins.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville forms part of the very fabric of Volnay. The Clos des Ducs, one of the village’s prime vineyards, lies directly behind the family home of the current Marquis, Guillaume d’Angerville.
The domaine, once part-owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, consists
of 14 hectares of vines. The vast majority of this – 12.5 hectares – is premier
cru, representing over 10% of the total premier cru plantings in Volnay.
Guillaume d’Angerville left the world of finance in Paris to take charge of the
domaine upon the death of his father, Jacques, in 2003. The domaine has been in
the family for over two centuries, having been acquired in 1805. Guillaume has
been supported since 2003 by his brotherin-law, Renaud de Villette, who had
worked with Jacques for many years. François Duvivier is the domaine’s
régisseur (manager), overseeing both the vineyards and the cellar. The Marquis
d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes,
meaning a high ‘skin to juice ratio’ and so a high level of natural tannins.
The vines were replanted, following phylloxera, by Guillaume’s grandfather,
Sem, shortly after his arrival at the domaine in 1906. A century later, in
2006, the domaine began conversion to biodynamic viticulture and is now wholly
biodynamic. In the cellar, the grapes are cooled before fermentation.
Extraction focuses on remontage (pumping over) rather than pigeage (punching
down). Around a quarter new oak tends to be the maximum. The wines remain in
barrel for 15-18 months and are customarily bottled unfined and unfiltered.
These are the Volnays that we dream of: elegantly perfumed on the nose, with
layered, textured palates. They combine intricate finesse with complexity,
power and long ageing potential. Just occasionally, they display a sense of
weightlessness which takes your breath away, the soaring flavours seemingly
borne from thin air.
Appellation : Volnay 1er Cru Champans
Producer : Guillaume d’Angerville
Founded : 1805
Size: 3.98 hectares
Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
Age of the vines: 37 years in average
Culture: Organic /