Domaine Marquis d'Angerville - Meursault 1er Cru Santenots 2017 - 750 ml
WHAT THE CRITICS ARE SAYING
“The 2017s show great vitality and concentration, yet they are airy, almost ethereal in the mouth. The tannins are fine and well-integrated, providing structure and clear direction. There is brightness and succulence in this vintage, and unusual approachability at such an early stage.” Guillaume d’Angerville
This was racked just after harvest, around three weeks before we tasted in October 2018. Bright, ripe and effusive on the nose, tropically inflected even, although we can put some of this down to the stage of élevage. This finds its poise on the mid-palate and finishes focused and precise. There is every sign that this will come together beautifully.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville forms part of the very fabric of Volnay. The Clos des Ducs, one of the village’s prime vineyards, lies directly behind the family home of the current Marquis, Guillaume d’Angerville.
The domaine, once part-owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, consists of 14 hectares of vines. The vast majority of this – 12.5 hectares – is premier cru, representing over 10% of the total premier cru plantings in Volnay. Guillaume d’Angerville left the world of finance in Paris to take charge of the domaine upon the death of his father, Jacques, in 2003. The domaine has been in the family for over two centuries, having been acquired in 1805. Guillaume has been supported since 2003 by his brotherin-law, Renaud de Villette, who had worked with Jacques for many years. François Duvivier is the domaine’s régisseur (manager), overseeing both the vineyards and the cellar. The Marquis d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes, meaning a high ‘skin to juice ratio’ and so a high level of natural tannins. The vines were replanted, following phylloxera, by Guillaume’s grandfather, Sem, shortly after his arrival at the domaine in 1906. A century later, in 2006, the domaine began conversion to biodynamic viticulture and is now wholly biodynamic. In the cellar, the grapes are cooled before fermentation. Extraction focuses on remontage (pumping over) rather than pigeage (punching down). Around a quarter new oak tends to be the maximum. The wines remain in barrel for 15-18 months and are customarily bottled unfined and unfiltered. These are the Volnays that we dream of: elegantly perfumed on the nose, with layered, textured palates. They combine intricate finesse with complexity, power and long ageing potential. Just occasionally, they display a sense of weightlessness which takes your breath away, the soaring flavours seemingly borne from thin air.
Appellation : Meursault 1er Cru Santenots
Producer : Guillaume d’Angerville
Size: 1.04 hectares
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Age of the vines: 32 years in average
Culture: Organic / Biodynamic